corrections/comments

The quote from the Scottish band is actually: “ I’m chust going to have myself a wee dram and prochect myself into insanity!” was the opening remark for the Vatersay Boys CD “The Sound of Vatersay”. They come from Castlebay on Barra in the Western Isles.

The reason my cousins are MacMath and I am McMath is that it came about at the registrar's office when my dad's cousin Forbes birth was registered. According to Moyra (his daughter), it was his aunt who got the spelling wrong!!
But when Forbes was young, he signed his name McMath. Only when he was older did he use the name on his birth certificate. (MacMath).

I went to Hanger One in Alameda to taste their Vodkas and other spirits. They have a single malt Scotch that tastes nothing like Scotch to me. It tastes more like Bourbon. I think that the real Scotch can only be made in Scotland.

The end.

Dad (Barrie McMath) and his childhood friend, Fred Mann.

Dad's birthday party. Mary MacMath, Dad McMath, and Mary McMath's arms.

Sitting in a whiskey library of over 600 single malts, some of them were over 50 pounds a shot. I was the only one who indulged. Mine wasn't that expensive, but I was glad that Dad paid. (Moyra MacMath in the forground, Dad, Mary McMath and a little bit of Mary MacMath.)

Moyra MacMath, Elizabeth McMath, & Andrew MacMath

Can you see the poor man who tried to get to the whiskey? (his feet are sticking out the top.)

Andrew MacMath, Mary McMath, Elizabeth McMath, Barrie McMath and a whole lot of drams of Aberlour Whiskey.

Mary McMath, Barrie McMath, Stalker Castle, and Elizabeth McMath

I am back

In case anyone is wondering I am back in Walnut Creek. It is tough to come back to reality and to the world of work. I don't know if I am entirely back mentally.

I enjoyed the 9 days of being chauffeured around a beautiful country, seeing lovely scenery, tasting good scotch, eating good meals and feeling the energy of my ancestors. It was great seeing family and feeling so comfortable with them. I feel very blessed to have the opportunity to do this. I am thankful to my Dad and to my sister who made it fun.
I am so pleased that my dad has decided to get the hip operation that he needs so much. I know he is scared, but I don't see any other alternative for him except to be come less and less mobile which would be bad for everyone. I understand there are risks to any operations, but he needs this.

Anyway, Scotland is a country that I will never say no to. It is beautiful and full of generous people. It still seems wild and untamed as it grows and expands. It is full of variety and I don't even pretend to have experienced even a small percentage of all it has to offer.

I am a little angry that I gained weight, but I must say that no matter what people say about Scottish cooking... it has come a long way and I loved every bite. Have a mentioned that I love fish? I had a lot of Salmon and a lot of Haddock. I had a lot of fresh fruit and wonderful Scottish cheese. (the one complaint is the choice of wine!.. it was horrible in most places.) Oddly, I was never in the mood for beer, but I suspect their beer is fairly good.

INFO:
Best driver and tour guide (well.. he was our only driver): Mike Hardie www.tourinscotland.co.uk/index.asp He knew so much and it didn't take him long to understand what Dad liked to hear about and focused more on that. He was laid back and flexible with our schedule. His help was invaluable.

Best Bed and Breakfast: Aslar House http://www.aslar.com/

Best Scotch tour: Abelour http://www.aberlour.com/ I also liked Kilchoman. http://www.kilchomandistillery.com/

Best Scotch.... no way I can pick... Did you know that each distillery has its own individual water source? Still amazed me especially on Islay which is an island with 9 distilleries (or more).

Best Scotch store: Whiskey castle in Tomintoul http://www.whiskycastle.co.uk/

Best surprise tour spot: I was surprised at how much I enjoyed the Cooperage. http://www.speysidecooperage.co.uk/

Best dinner: Toss up! I actually liked the Russel Hotel www.russellhotelstandrews.co.uk/dining.htm
I also liked the Glass House and Doll House (owned by the same people in St. Andrews). http://www.houserestaurants.com/
I also liked the restaurant in Boat Garten (near Grantown on Spey). www.andersonsrestaurant.co.uk/index.php

Best desert: Sticky Toffee Pudding. http://www.rampantscotland.com/recipes/blrecipe_sticky.htm

That's it. I am overcome by jet lag.
I will write about my last few days with my dad in PA tomorrow.

I forgot to post this: Arrival in Newark.

We arrived in Newark and we were greeted by a wheelchair for Dad. The woman pushing the wheelchair was really nice. She asked me if we were connecting and I said no, and she looked at her schedule and said... Oh I see, you are the ones that need a bathroom soon. I rolled my eyes and said yes, we are. I guess Dad told the flight attendants. We waited for Dad, and then went quickly through security. The wheel chair woman took us right to the taxi.... We got right to Alice's house in Basking Ridge with no problems. Mom was already there. Alice was picking up Matheson with Brendan, so Patrick came outside to greet us. He has grown. (he will be 4 on Halloween). When Matheson an Brendan walked in, they looked older, too. Matheson is in first grade now. He says that he isn't sure that he likes school, but he does like recess. He told me that he and his friends like to play a new game called chasing girls!! He is only 6 years old.

Brendan is walking and looked like a little boy instead of a baby. (he is 15 months). He is also fearless. He just does what he wants and goes where he pleases... nothing bothers him unless his mother leaves.


When we finally got to Springtown, PA, I was ready for some quiet time. The dogs were happy to see Dad and thrilled to see me. I am their walking friend. I take them for walks and they remember me for that.


Dad told Mom that he was really glad to have disposable underwear and read that they can even be worn twice. I still don't understand it at all, but he had extra room in his suitcase for all our Scotch which is a good thing.

health care comment.

I was in agreement with my Dad on this. The British health care is appalling (at least for the senior population). I was shocked at the lack of care. I can only hope we don't go the way of the British. At least some of the population has options for private care.

End of Monday and Tuesday

Dad and I returned to the B&B around 5:30. Dinner reservations for dinner were at 6:30 at the Seafood Restaurant. It was just enough time to change and pack up my suitcase to give to Stan to take downstairs for me. He is strong. He also didn't want me struggling in the dark at 5:15 in the morning (and waking up his other guests).
With that settled, off we went to the restaurant (on foot) which is further than the other ones. As we were turning the corner onto a street, Dad slipped, grabbed onto me and I went smashing into big plastic trash bins. He was yelling at me that he was going to fall all the way down, but I was about to fall as well (he was hanging onto my arm). He was almost on the ground anyway, but I gathered all the strength I could and helped him up just balancing on one leg and using the arm he was holding. Let me tell you, he is HEAVY! Oh well. We were okay. I do have a couple of bruises, but other than that no damage. I will go to the chiropractor when I return. At least it set his resolve to get an operation for his hip soon.

We made it to the restaurant with no other incident. It is all windows and we got a table looking over the water/beach. This was a fancy place and the first time that we had a meal that wasn't' piles and piles of food. The meal was excellent except they added ham squares to my fish dish. I almost returned it, but decided I just would put it on the side and not make a fuss. I ended the meal with a plate of Scottish cheese and a dram of Balvenie 15 year old. The cheese plate included a cheese I had never heard of. It is called Criffel. It is close to a Scottish Brie. Dad also had a cheese plate and some earl grey tea which he usually hates, but this one was more aromatic than usual. ?????
We toasted Grandmother McMath because our trip was financed by the little money she left him when she died.
We walked back in the rain with no problems.

I stayed up a bit, and then tried to sleep because I had to wake up Dad at 4:40. He needed time to pack, dress and the fruit that Stan left for him in the fridge. I woke up at 3:30 and didn't go back to sleep. I will sleep in PA.
We were in the car by 5:25 and true to form Dad started talking to Mike. He told Mike stories about his army days. I didn't know that Dad peeled potatoes and I didn't know he worked in the kitchen baking bread and rolls for the officers. No wonder he still likes to make bread and croissants. I guess I should have listened carefully to his stories in the past.... but the honest truth is he is usually lecturing the state of the world and raising his blood pressure.

He also talked more about his Dad, when we were with Fred. After being in the army, my grandfather was asked to investigate into embezzling and black market rings within the ranks. One day they found him run over and over and over. No one knew what happened. Dad was only 11... sad.

We arrived at the airport and immediately Dad had to pop into the handicapped toilet. We finally got checked in, got a wheel chair and said good bye to Mike. Dad just loves first class, and of course we were able to get on the plane first.
More later.

Monday

Did I mention that on Sunday, Stan and Mary (the B&B hosts) were kind enough to wake up Dad and get him to breakfast on time? It was a great help as I was going with Mary and on my own tour and wouldn't be back in time. Yes, I was in charge of waking Dad and Mary up every morning. Anyway, I have to repeat myself in saying that Aslar is a gem in St. Andrews.

MONDAY:
I got up Monday and woke up Dad on my way out to do a little walk around the town. It was a sunny cool day. After a hearty breakfast, I ran over to the only bookstore I hadn't been in to try to find a children's book about Rory. for my nephew Patrick. It is a series of Scottish books about a little boy named Rory. I think we got the first book when we were there in 2005 for Matheson who would have been 2 years old.
I found one! and a newspaper for my dad. I think he has been in a much better mood than normal because he hasn't been reading the news or watching the TV. So I got a small paper called the Scotsman which has a lot of sports scores around England.
I ran back to the B&B because Mike was picking us up at 10. Dad was happy about his breakfast. He had a sausage that was locally made. THE BEST!. Other than that he had only fruit. That is a good thing. His weight has soared in the past few years.
Mike was on time as usual, and we got in the car and Dad started to talk.. Mike is really good to my dad who loves a blather as I mentioned.
We are on our way to Dunfermline to pick up Fred Man (the brother of Jean Dundas, who we saw on Saturday). Fred was an academic (very smart and amazing memory for information). He was involved with the Carnegie organization which was (is?) headquartered in Dunfermline. His wife (who died last year) was very involved in the abbey which goes back to 1072 and was built by King David I of Scotland for his saintly mother, Queen Margaret. Dad and I knew Fred would try to take us there for lunch so we told him we were taking him somewhere. We have been to the abbey quite a few times. I knew it would probably be good to get Fred out. He has two bad hips and has had a stroke so he isn't too quick or mobile so doesn't get out much anymore.
Mike and I had quite a time getting Dad and Fred in their seat belts in the back of the car. They couldn't get it done on their own. It has turned into the geriatric tour!!!
We drove along the coast up to one of a few fishing villages, called Anstruther. We had lunch at the Craw's Nest. It is a hotel, but being off season it was very quiet in the restaurant. I was able to get out for a quick walk down to the water while Dad and Fred had desert. Don't worry, Mom.. he only had fruit.
We got BACK in the CAR and drove up a few more villages and then back to Dunfermline another way. I took a nap, and Mike (who has picked up on what dad likes to hear about) gave information about all the places we were passing. It is just such lovely landscape that for me it is just fun to just be there.
At one point Dad said he saw a Rover (car that Britain used to make). He has mentioned a few times that he wondered why he didn't see any Rovers... then he says... oh they must have stopped production a long time ago. Mike, for the third time, that they only stopped in 2006, and there are quite a few still on the road. Dad for the third time didn't hear him. I just laughed.
Dad is funny. He has soooo much information in his head. He can talk to someone for 5 minutes and remember their whole life history. Amazing. And he tried to tell us that he is shy! He will talk to anyone.

We dropped off Fred, and drove yet another way back to St. Andrews. It continued to be such a beautifully sunny day. Mike drove us through a very cute town named Faukland. It was great. I just wish we had more time to explore and less time in the car. BUT this trip is about my Dad and what he wants and is able to do.
Dad really enjoys learning about new places and the history and he remembers things, so Mike has been a great resource. Mike put on a CD of Scottish music. Unlike my father, I can't retain information that rapidly, so I don't know the name of the group. In one of the songs, the lead musician says "I think I will have a wee dram of whiskey to project me into insanity" THAT I was able to remember. It was very funny. Dad liked it but doesn't like the word insanity, so he has changed it to oblivion. So if you ever hear him say it, that is where it came from.

in PA

Bummer.... I wrote all about the past few days as a word document when i was flying today. thinking my computer always works in Springtown, PA at my parent's house. BUT this time it doesn't. I tried everything. SO I have to retype everything.
I am glad to be here off duty... seeing my mom and the dogs. (7 of them.... Ueschi, Simone, Avalance, Pilgrim, Erik, Brittia, and Ziggy). I went for a long walk this morning and I am happy not to be in the car today.

Sunday....
I got Mary up at 4:50, so she would be ready to meet Mike at 5:30 to take her to the airport. I went with her. The B&B was terrific and gave us food for breakfast in our fridge the night before. We got to the airport and Mary answered the security questions correctly but couldn't remember where she was staying last. HUH?
We made sure she got through security. Then Mike took me through an empty Edinburgh on a little (cold and windy) tour. It was fun to drive through the city early on a Sunday morning and see the castle. Then we drove on the coast that goes east. It was beautiful. I would love to buy a house there.
We ended up in North Berwick. (I think that is the name of the town, I will have to double check on the map... remember i have a sieve brain).
I wanted to see Puffins. I begged Mike, but he said he was a good tour guide, but couldn't change the migration of the Puffins who go to sea late September. I saw just lovely seaside and big houses and farmland with sheep and cows and horses. (how unusual). I looked through Mike's binoculors to the island off the coast to see the Gannets.
We drove for quite a long time, and the honest truth is that I was falling asleep a lot of the time. No breakfast tea and getting up early took its toll.
I got back around 11:45, and at noon, Dad and I set out to find the restaurant, Doll's House, where we met up with May and Wilma. May is Dad's first cousin on his mother's side. She was a McKinnon. She is very small. I am always surprised at my Dad's size compared to his famly. Of course, Dad is very fat. At dinner later we saw a fat guy and Dad said "at least I don't look like him." I said, "well you do". He looked quite surprised and said "really?" I told him yes.

Anway, Wilma is her daughter who is my age. (my second cousin). Bill, May's husband, died last year and in the meantime May has had a heart attack and the crummy health system here refuses to do the necessary operation to make her well. May doesn't have the money to go private, so it is just a matter of time watching her die knowing that a simple heart operation could save her. Side note: Jean Dundas also needs a necessary simple operation and can't go private. The doctors put her on a waiting list with a whole lot of conditions. She will be 10 years older before they consider her. (she is 83 already). Another side note: Mary MacMath's doctor explained what see needed to get better, but again is on a list that will exceed her life span. I am sorry for people here with medical problems and for once listen to my Dad about how our country will suffer with the new health plan as it stands. At least Britain has a private option. We wouldn't.

Okay enough of that. Where was I???
Oh at the Doll's house for lunch. (yes, still eating). May has a cane and can hardly breathe, but the funny thing is that she looks great. Sadly for Wilma, May relies totally on Wilma. There is no other family. We had a great lunch. Scottish food has changed greatly in the past 10 years. The wine list is horrible. I did have wine at lunch! OH bad me.

Then we went to Wilma's house. She lives in St. Andrews. I told them I needed a walk, so Wilma, the dog and I went for a walk. It was great connecting with another cousin. She is very different from Moyra and Andrew, but still we still had no problem talking and sharing.

After a late tea with May and Wilma, we went back to the hotel to get ready for our next meal! Yes I have grown 3 sizes.
We walked to Playfairs pub and had pub food. It was great.. even has tarten wallpaper. We had scotch, too. We sat next to some funny Englishmen. Dad is very outgoing and talks to anyone... unfortunately for me.. he repeats himself. Though I did learn that when he was in the service, he worked with the Australian army. They were very nice to him.
We walked back to the hotel. I think Stan felt sorry for me because it was still early and I couldn't go out to the pubs. He let me see their collection of CDs. I watched Liam Neeson in Taken. It was my type of movie.
The end!

Loves a blather...

At dinner at the Glass House, Dad was funny. He told us about Farting Fergus from his army days. He was laughing so hard he nearly fell off the chair. He told us that the latrine was called Thunderbox 3. I didn't even ask. He went to the army after high school so he started University late, which is why he was able to meet my mother who is 6 years younger at St. Andrew's.
He loves a blather as three women have told us. (he loves to talk).

Saturday:

Mary and I got up and had a small walk before breakfast. I think St. Andrews looks better in some clouds, but it was raining this morning. We walked to the ruins and around the deserted streets. Then we had breakfast. After breakfast we did the rest of our shopping and then rushed back to get ready to go see Jean Dundas.

Jean is an old friend of Dad's. She told me that as a child, my dad was very quiet. He was taught that "little boys should be seen not heard". He whispered as he played with toys, and stopped playing at all when an adult came in the room. He grew up with strict school teacher aunties. He talked about how he got rapped on his knuckles with a wooden spoon when he had bad manners. It reminded me that he hadn't commented on my table manners since we have been here. Last time we were here, he was still kicking me under the table as I wondered what I had done.

We drove to Kirriemuir, the birthplace of JM Barrie to pick up Jean. She has a nice old house. Her husband was a lawyer in town, and bought the house when there were no other houses around.
She took us to a lunch place called Tavern. It was actually pretty good.... eating again and again. The owner came out to talk to us. Dad did his usual thing about how he mispronounced Islay calling it EYELEE instead of EYELA. The owner said that he thinks that people say EYELEE Whiskeys from EYELA. It sounds confusing to me, but I believed him.
After lunch we went to Glamis castle the preferred home of the Queen Mother. Jean LOVES this place. We didn't tour the castle, but drove around the grounds. It is very beautiful. It was funny to hear Jean competing with Mike about information about the area. After that we drove through Kirriemuir and past JM Barrie's birth home. Jean told us about some duke who was afflicted with the drink. We figured that meant a drunk. She said there were other expressions... "he had drink taken" and "Weel a wah"

That reminds me that when we went to Edradour distillery, we were in the gift shop and an older woman working there (with bad Scottish teeth), asked Dad if he needed help finding a good whiskey. He said "no, I just can't take any more". He meant in his suitcase, but the woman thought he meant he had already had too much to drink.

We left Kirriemuir to go back to St. Andrew's for dinner. Dad was obsessed about getting a banana and some Strathmore water and a newspaper. Mary and I went out.. we couldn't find any Strathmore still water, and then spent 20 minutes in the checkout line... and they told us we were in the wrong lane to buy bananas. Mary was getting grouchy, so I just said forget it. I told Dad to eat potatoes for his potassium and to have another scotch.

We ate at the Russel hotel. It was quite good and easy to walk to. He had a Scotch. (and wine.. Pouilly Fume).

Mary and I came back and I watched while she stuffed all her stuff into her suitcase. We figured we would take a shower in the morning. (We had to get up at 4:50 as Mike was coming at 5:30 to pick us up to take Mary to the airport). Well... at 4:50, only cold water comes out of the taps. It was a cold start to the morning.
The B&B hosts gave us bagels and fruit and orange juice that night to have in the morning. They are WONDERFUL!
They also told me they would knock on Dad's door in the morning to wake him up for Breakfast.
Good night for that night!

Friday

We left Grantown on Spey at about 9:30 and started our journey south to St. Andrews. BUT first we had to go to Cousin Mary's house to say good bye. Mary was waiting at the window for us. Andrew looked like he just dragged himself from his bed.
We said our good byes. It was too short.

Dad has starting doing something really annoying that Mary pointed out to me. He points with his cane. Is there something wrong with his other hand? Mary told him we would start fining him. He told us we were being ridiculous, and then he saw a dog and pointed his cane at it. Whoops!

ANyway, we decided on the slow ride south. I wish I could remember all the great information and history that Mike gave us, but right now I am two days behind and I can't remember everything from day to day.
I wondered at one point if Mike was ready to strangle Dad..... asking him to pronounce and spell every town we went through... asking him about different cars.... telling the same stories... giving political speeches....
I think this was the day that Mom emailed us and told us about Obama winning the Peace Prize and not to tell dad until we had to.

Anyway, I was familiar with this road through the ski areas. There is a little stone house that looks abandoned that I love and tell everyone when I pass by it, that is my house. Actually what I am thinking is that it was my house in a previous life.

Mary and I made Mike stop at the Whiskey Museum shop where we got to sample some tastes from the owner. He lived in Utah for a time. He was hysterical. We have decided that Scots might be cheap, but they are so very friendly and funny.

Now that we were fortified at 10am, we could move on. We saw snow in the mountains... Mary was convinced that is was snowing when we were driving, but she was also convinced that she slept in the bed against the far wall the first night at Mrs. Glum's place.... she didn't, I did.

We drove south towards Pitlochy and stopped briefly at Edradour Distillery. They claim to be the smallest in Scotland. Maybe they were for a time, but we went to Kilchoman on Islay which is actually the smallest one.
On the way there, the road was very narrow and winding. I have had very little trouble with car sickness until this point.... then I had to have the window open and no one talking to me. Mike told me about a new device that cures motion sickness. I will try it sometimes.
Dad thinks it is Mary who gets motion sickness and always asks her if she is okay... not me. Hello!

After the distillery, we moved on to a small lunch place.. nothing to write about, except that it always takes double the time than we think it will be. I think I mentioned that he talks to every waitress and then disappears in his new favorite place "disabled toilets".

After lunch we headed into Pitlochy to find a Bank. Dad and Mary get out of the car and come right back. Dad went on and on for about the next 20 minutes about banks closing in the middle of the day. We went on towards St. Andrews via Dundee. If I were driving, I would have driven a longer way to avoid Dundee. I drove with Dad there in 1997 and there are a million roundabouts and signs that make no sense unless you already know your way around. I found myself in 1997 going round in circles. Finally, I saw a cop and did an illegal u-turn and told him... I was not moving the car until I knew how to get out of the town. He led me out of town.
I was glad Mike was driving and pointing out things that made it look like a friendly city.

Since this trip is all about getting in the car, going to meals and repacking... we just stayed in the car and kept driving.

On to St. Andrews. We arrived and were warmly greeted at our B&B by Mary and Stan. Dad got his ground floor room. This place is the best of all of them from my point of view. Mary and I have a spacious room and it has everything including an ipod station. Mary and Stan are so friendly and helpful. We made a reservation for dinner (can't forget hungry Dad) at the Glass House just down the street. No problems for Dad.
Oh I forgot on the way to the B&B, Dad announced that we needed to stop at the University store to get himself a sweater and Mom a sweatshirt. We got him a sweater... but not a sweatshirt for mom. We discovered there are NO sweatshirts without hoods in this town.

Now back to right after checking in. Dad was happy and excited to be able to walk to dinner. The funny thing is that they put us upstairs. I told him, it would be okay since there are rails on the stairs. It was a nice restaurant. Dad even ordered a non meat dish. I am enjoying fish most nights. Mary is enjoying her steak and lamb and wine.

Mary and I finally got for a walk that night making a list of things we needed to get and where we wanted to go the next day.
I must add that my dad's weight and hip are a real problem, but he has been more cheerful than I thought. We divert his rantings by asking him questions about school at St. Andrews. He actually has a lot of information and memory from being there in the mid 50s. He said he and the other students could play on the St. Andrew's courses for 2 pounds.

I feel sad as he wishes he could take walks with us especially here.
Next: Saturday.

About Mrs. Marshall

Our host at the B&B, Mrs. Glum Marshall came to us when we arrived after taking a walk on Thursday. She said she heard that we weren't happy with her. She went through of a list of things she did to make us feel welcome and basically wanted to know what our problem was. I felt really uncomfortable. I asked her who told her and she said our driver had talked to her husband and told him that we felt unwelcome and then again went through her list of things she says and does to welcome people and asked if we had a problem with this. I didn't know what to say at first, but then told her that I thought it odd that she didn't introduce herself to us when we arrived and seemed not to know who we were even though we were expected. She had another excuse.
Mary said maybe Mike shouldn't have said anything, but I told her that Mike was tyring to protect us, but with people like Mrs. Glum you can't know how they will react. Mike also has a reputation to maintain to I was not upset with him, but I was upset at how Mrs. Marshall approached us on the defensive. She hardly allowed us to say anything back to her. We finally just said it was a misunderstanding and we walked away. I wouldn't reccomend going there. She is a confrontational uncomfortable woman. My dad still thinks she is shy. I told him that is no excuse to be rude. I told him I was shy, but I wasn't rude. Then he tried to tell me that he is shy. Even Mike laughed at that one!

After tasting at Abelour.

We finished our tasting at Abelour and drove back to the witch's den. Dad went to his room to relax. Mary and I decided to walk around town with Andrew. We found out that everything closes around 4:30-5pm. Mary bought some wine and I bought some camera batteries.
We then walked on a little walking path that took us to the Spey river, then back through the pine forest to cousin Mary's house.
Then Mary and I had to rush back to change for dinner and to get dad ready. This is the night that we celebrate his birthday. (surprise for him). Moyra ordered a cab (van to take us all there). It came and the driver took a look at my Dad, and got his stool to help dad up and told day not to break it! I laughed and Mary hit me. BUT my dad is heavy.
We got to the restaurant which is great. (surprised we made it as the driver was a little maniacal on the roads.
I loved the restaurant. It was casual and unpretentious and used local fresh foods. They made their own bread that was so good that I had too much before dinner.
Here is their blurb:
Welcome to Anderson's Restaurant at Boat of Garten, located in the heart of the Cairngorms National Park. Whether you've something to celebrate, are at the end of a hard day's walking in the hills, or simply fancy a break from cooking at home, it is our wish at Anderson's that you all feel welcome. Forget pretence, the atmosphere here is relaxed and informal, so sit back, switch off, and savour the pleasure of great food and drink.
At Anderson's we are committed to using local Scottish produce when it is in season, so needless to say, our menu changes each month, along with our daily specials. Each dish is lovingly prepared and bought together in such a way as to bring out the very best of truly great, fresh ingredients. Although our menu is creative, our aim is simple, to present you with food that we are confident you will enjoy, and that tastes fantastic.

We walked in and Dad was very surprised to have the hostess take us to the table with Balloons and birthday banners. Then Mary and I gave him a couple of gifts. A hat and boxer shorts that said "Bloody hell, I am 80". I think she and I liked it more than he did, but it was still a good idea.
We had a fun dinner with laughter and good food and good wine (yes... eating and drinking again.. I can't fit into my clothes.)
The taxi picked us up and we dropped off Dad and then Mary, then Andrew, Moyra, Mary, Harriet and I went to the local pub which was full of characters. We were happy to have the code for the door at the B&B so we didn't have a curfew. Andrew walked us back.
I was very tired and fell asleep quickly because there was no internet access to blog. A good night for all... The air was crisp and cool and a breeze was getting stronger. We heard someone on the road talking about snow in the mountains already.
Good night.

Thursday... whiskey trail!

Mary and I did not get up and walk. I am Dad's alarm clock while Mary snores. I knocked on his door and hear some expletive, and then I went back to bed for another 30 minutes. It was very cold! Mary said there was ice on our window.
Grantown-on-Spey is in the Grampian Mountains. The Spey river is a salmon fishing mecca as well as being near skiing and other outdoor activities. Forbes, my father's cousin, was an avid fisherman. He once told me that he loved the peace and quiet and the connection with nature as he was standing in the cold river currents.
It is a small village with a big hotel and many B&Bs. It is also near the whiskey trail.

Mike picked us up at 8:30 to go to the cooperage. With so many distilleries, there is a constant need for coopers to make the barrels. They are paid well... work hard and do amazing work.

It was a fascinating tour and my father enjoyed every thing he learned there. We then went to the gift shop and sampled some whiskey liqueur. Mary smiled and said, "I LIKE this!" We had to hussle and jump in the car to go to Glenlivet. Cousin Mary's father worked at Glenlivet in the 1930s, so we were able to get a private tour. Dad was thrilled when they greeted him as if he was a celebrity!
On the way we passed by other distilleries and beautiful houses and estates. Sheep are still dotting the landscape as are the highland cows.
At Glenlivet we met up with cousin Mary, Moyra, and Andrew. We got to taste 3 or 4 samples and get a quick tour (because Dad and cousin Mary can't walk well). My sister, Mary, still makes faces when tasting whiskey, but she definitely prefers the Speyside malts.
We walked around a bit, and then tried MORE. Our great guide gave us a sample of the good stuff. At this point, we had almost had enough for our morning.
Now off to a big lunch... too much each eating... where we were the only patrons. It was a bit stuffy, but at the end we sat in their single malt room in comfy chairs looking at over 600 single malts. Yikes. I had to have one!
I did. Didn't look at the price until later (18 pounds for a dram of the one I chose.) My cousin/husband told me he couldn't afford me. I told him that he was lucky that I have a generous dad. Moyra told me that if I was married to Andrew then she would be an honorary daughter and next time she got to take a trip with my dad. Okay with me!
Dad was still enjoying himself.
Now we had to rush off to the Abelour tour. This was by far one of the best. (and most expensive). The guide was witty (from Canada) and informative and just fun. Did you know there is a fungus that grows just where there are high concentrations of alcohol. It is called the whiskey fungus. SO if you drive around whiskey country and see black spots on the buildings and plants that is the reason. Well... I found it interesting.
I was impressed with my father. It was a 2 hour tour and included a lot of stairs. He managed it with some grunts and groans. He was funny, at one point, he just sat down next to the computer guy (almost all of the whiskey making process is regulated by the computer). Dad is very friendly and the computer guy was loving the attention. Computer guys showed dad how it all worked.
The floor upstairs was metal and not solid. You could see through it to the floor below. I was not scared, but my body reacted as if I was going to fall and I felt dizzy. The guide asked if I was okay. It embarrassed me. But I couldn't walk well. I couldn't decide whether I should share the chair with Dad... hold on to Mary... hold on to Andrew or hold on to one of the Dutch guys on the tour. One of them looked soo much like Hans that I almost hung on to him, but I grabbed Andrew instead. He thought I was just being an affectionate spouse, but I really couldn't walk on my own until we got on solid ground.

The guide was really funny. At one point he asked a question and Dad gave a sarcastic funny answer and the guide started laughing. He said to me later, "what your dad said was really funny.. I can't forget that... I will use it in my next tour." My Dad can be very funny when he wants, but you have to be able to understand that he is joking. He sometimes scares waitresses and taxi drivers.
FINALLY we are at the tasting room.... 6 glasses are arranged on tables and we tasted. The funniest thing was one of the Dutch guys wasn't drinking because he was driving... BUT he brought little bottles to put his samples in for later.
Okay, the other funny thing was that the first taste was pure alcohol.. clear like water. Chris the host, said this is the water of pure whiskey. Mary heard water and was thirsty and gulped it. She nearly fell off her chair. Her face was red and contorted. She recovered though and was able to taste the rest.
On the way out, Dad had to use the toilet (we say men's room and restroom, but they always say Toilet). As I mentioned, he loved the handicap bathrooms. But today we learned that the problem with them is that there is no where to hang his coat. Don't ask.... I walked Dad to the the area where the toilets are. as Mary and Andrew walked on. Suddenly, I saw Mary laughing and she came over to me and said that Andrew said, "its been hours since I had a bloody fag". She didn't understand what it meant. We got quite a laugh out of it. Mary is still talking about it. She didn't know that fag is the word for cigarette.

Falling asleep!!!! More tomorrow.

Wednesday afternoon and evening.

We arrived at the B&B and we walked to the door of a place that is right next door to the one I stayed at two other times. These are huge stone houses with three floors of rooms. We rang the bell (the door was locked). The woman who answered did not smile and asked us what we wanted. Mary told her we were the McMaths. There was little recognition and still no smile. I introduced us by name and she still didn't tell us who she was.
I then remembered that my cousin called her Mrs. Glum (not her real name which is Mrs. Marshall). I waited for Mrs. Glum to smile, but it never happened. BUT the rooms were great and clean and perfect for us, but we really did feel unwelcome.
I was glad to get right back out. Mike drove us to Mary MacMath's house in town before getting his break. Poor Mike... sometimes I feel sorry for him driving us, but then I remember he is getting paid and I don't feel so bad.
We went to see Mary MacMath who is the wife of my dad's late first cousin, Forbes MacMath. Did I mention why the spelling difference? Well, there is no reason that anyone can tell me with definity. Forbes' father, who was a minister, just decided to change the name... no reason given.

My second cousin, Andrew came all the way from England for a couple of days to see us. So he and cousin Mary greeted us when we got to Mary's house. I was a little sad to see Mary. Her sight has deteriorated to the point that she can hardly see. Her memory loss is great and her posture is sad. BUT it was a great lesson in being happy in the moment to see her. She is happy to just be. I love her energy and can't help but smile when near her. She was so happy to see us. It was a heart felt welcome.
Andrew is my favorite cousin and he loves seeing us, too. He has missed having his father around and said my dad reminds him of his dad and just enjoys being around us. Soon after we arrived, Moyra (Andrew's sister... Mary's daughter) stopped by. She lives a few houses down. She and I have been exchanging emails and we have connected enough so that it was like seeing an old friend. Her daughter Harriet (17) was in town from school in Glasgow to see us. She is a terrific 17 year old. I was impressed with her maturity underneath the teenage facade.
Dad would have stayed there forever. It was great. Mary would ask him a question.. he would go on and on with the answer. Then she would ask again, and he could talk again.
BUT we had to get back to the B&B again. Moyra asked if Mrs. Marshall was as glum as she thought. Mary and I both said "Yes" at the same time. Dad said that she wasn't glum, she was shy. Don't know where he got that! Sometimes Dad can be really sensitive.
Anyway, we booked dinner there for all 7 of us. We were told we had to be on time at 7pm. It was an order more than a request from my point of view.
I won't go into details about dinner, but Mrs. Glum got gloomier and gloomier. Luckily, she was out in the kitchen pretending she was a 5 star chef. Her server, Lizzie was great. Bubbly and friendly. Mrs. Glum's husband William was friendly, but poor guy... he was so hen pecked.

Dinner was actually pretty good... well... Dad liked it and that was the point. BUT, they charged for a cup of coffee which was not a good thing.
There was another couple there who was listening to our insane conversations. I was sitting next to Andrew and Harriet. Harriet had a cold and Andrew was mumbling about cigarettes. Mary and Moyra were laughing about Mrs. Glum. Dad was telling cousin Mary the same stories over and over. Anyway, the couple told us they thought they had us figured out. I know that is a fun game to play, so we asked them to tell us our relationships. The said Dad and cousin Mary were married. Moyra and Mary were sisters. Harriet was the daughter of Moyra (they got one thing right!) and Andrew and I were an old married couple.(what??? ... Andrew loved that!). All of this became jokes for the next 24 hours. They were a funny couple. Mary and I wanted to go out on the town that night, but were not told the code to the inner door. The other people knew it and said they would tell us later (unfortunately, they went upstairs before we got it). Mary and I are too old to have babysitters, but we asked twice for the code and they told us to come back within an hour and they would still be up. HUH????? We are paying them.

We did put dad in his room and went with Moyra and Andrew back to Moyra's house to have a glass of wine and chat. Yes, we needed more to drink to get ready for the busy day the next day. "My husband" and "Mary's sister" were good hosts. Though Andrew said he wanted to divorce me for nagging him about smoking. After our hour of freedom from Mrs. Glum, we had to go back before the doors were locked to punish the crazy McMath clan.
We tried writing the blog, but access was in and out so we went to bed and vowed to walk the next morning at 7.

Tuesday night dinner in Oban...

Mary and I asked to share a meal because the portions in Britain are HUGE!. They said NO. Oh well... Dad had fish and chips. He was happy. So far he has had Hagis, he had fish and chips (they were really good). I had sea bass (it was really good). Mary had steak, but it wasn't good. Oh well.

THen we decided to walk back to the B&B in the wind and light rain. We walked along the water front. Dad said he could do it, but he was huffing and puffing after 5 minutes. It took Mary and I about 10 minutes to walk it early in the day, but took us almost 25 minutes with Dad. He made it. I think this was a good thing.
We went back to the back house and Dad went to the kings room!
Mary and I actually liked Iona, the owner of the the guest house. We walked to Dad's room earlier in the night with a bottle of opened wine, and she said, "excuse me, no alcohal allowed." Mary jumped in surprise (and probably in dismay). I laughed knowing it was a joke especially since she looked already a little tipsey herself.

We woke Dad up early after a rainy cold walk in the morning around the town. We had breakfast around 8 and Mary and I went into town to look for another sweater for Dad in his size... nothing! So we bought hankies for him. He "needed" them.

Then at 10am, we drove towards Fort William on route to Grantown on Spey. Dad loves the car travel. Mary and I feel antsy.
We saw so many things on the way. Any opportunity to get out of the car was welcome.
When I hired Mike, I told him that there were only two things (besided Whiskey) that I wanted to do. One was to see Stalker Castle. (I am sure Lise and Hans are getting a good laugh on that one). It is a castle I have seen over a dozen times photographed and loved it from a far. It is privately owned and on a small peice of land in the water. We stopped there and took a lot of photos. Even Dad walked with us.
I have to say at this point that I am thrilled that Mary is on this trip. It is helpful to have someone to talk to at the end of the day about Dad's funny things.
He knows all about everyone after talking to them for 5 minutes.

We got in the car once again. We drove to Glencoe and saw the statue remembering the masacure of 1692. King William took the throne and had all Scottish clans swear allegence to him by a certain date. The Macdonald clan was reluctant so they decided to wait until the last minute. He road out to pledge his support and when he got there realized that he was in the wrong place. He missed the deadline. IN the meantime, King William had anticipated a rebellion or two so had postiioned military near those clans including the MacDonalds. Scots might be cheap in some areas, but not in their generosity of hospitality. When William got the word about the MacDonald clan he had his men massacure the clan. This is awful!
We drove on a little detour out the road through glencoe and the mountains. It is very desolate and empty of people. This is part of the Scottish way which is a series of walking trails over Scotland. I would LOVE to do that. And actually people can go from B& B to B& B. It is also an option to have a sherpa lugging your stuff from place to place. It had a very strange and ancient energy that made me want to get out and breathe deeply inhaling the air and appreciating the love of the land that my ancestors loved.

We went then to the National Trust Visitor Center and bought a few things. On to Fort William where we had a light lunch (light is a relative word).
On the way we ran into an accident on the side of the road. A japanese tourist flipped his car. He was okay and someone had called emergencey services, but it made us apprecaite the driver's skills on the narrow uneven roads.
We drove by mountains (ski resorts), lochs, tiny villages, castles, sheep, cattle and stone houses.
We got to Grantown about 4 and decided to check in to our B&B before seeing family. More in next blog.

Finishing Tuesday

I didn't realize that getting an internet signal would be so difficult.
Tuesday at lunch, Mary and I split some Haddock. The first bite she took was full of bones, so she discretely spit it out in her napkin and then dropped it on the floor. (I didn't see it or I would have been appalled! And if my father had seen it, he would have not been happy). So about 10 minutes later, the owner and his dog are walking through the restaurant and the dog ran over to our table and stayed under there a few moments and the owner was looking very puzzled about why his dog was being disobedient. Later Mary said he was enjoying the fish bones she spit out. Dad was NOT amused.

After lunch we drove straight on to Oban. Oban is a all tourists. I have never seen so many B&Bs in such a small area. It is the gateway to some of the smaller islands and right on the water. We drove to our B&B and checked in. Dad got the kings room. It was a double room with large long windows overlooking the sea. HE was very happy. Mary and I were put in the back in a room in the new wing. It was ok, but nothing like Dad's palatial room. Mary was sitting on the little couch in our room sipping some wine and said "if you sit on the corner of the couch, you get an ocean view!"
Mary and I tried to get to Oban for a tour, but they were just closing the distillery, so we walked around the shops. Amazingly, everything closes between 4 and 5pm. I would think that because it is a tourist town, the shops would be open later. We did find a shop that was having a sale on cashmere and we found Dad a v-neck XXL!!!!! The only one of its size we have seen!!!!! We bought it and some hankies (he didn't bring enough and they aren't made well in the US). So he was very happy. (this was before dinner).
We drank a glass of wine while waiting for the taxi looking out of Dad's window. Then Mike showed up. (he goes off duty usually). He was worried that we hadn't gotten the message about us having dinner reservations at his friend's restaurant and came to get us.
We had dinner on the water at a fish restaurant. It took some time getting seated as dad chatted with the owner and his son about their new Astin Martin outside.
Dad is doing well with the cane, but has decided that he is bad enough that he needs a hip replacement. GOOD! He tells Mary that he may not live through the operation, but that is just fear talking. Interesting to me that he doesn't say that to me.
MoRE later. signal is weak.

Did I mention that when we got back Monday night from the pub that we sat with the owners and had a wee nip of some Scotch? I think so, but didn't mention what we drank. It was good… Buchannans 12 year old. Ronnie also let me try the Welsh scotch.

The wind and the rain howled all night. I couldn’t sleep much Monday night. When I finally went to sleep, I had nightmares which woke Mary up. She thought it was the cows mooing. The night before she thought I was snoring and someone told her that it was the bucks rutting. Whatever that means.
Anyway, the alarm when off at 6am and even though the rain and wind had subsided, Mary and I decided that we didn’t want to walk in the dark. We woke up dad, told him to be packed and ready for breakfast at 7:30. AND he was ready and waiting at 7:20. His bags were packed and ready to go. How unusual.

Ronnie, the owner wore a different plaid pants each day we were there and they derved us a big breakfast. And even gave Dad a bite of clooie pudding that Marhe had made. I took a bite, it was good. It was like a light fruitcake. It needs to be boiled in a clootie (linen cloth for 3 hours).

Mike picked us up at 8am, and as we were driving out the driveway, we waved to the Bank worker who was out walking her young dog. I guess with only 3000 peoplethere would be a tendency to know everyone. We drove to Port Ellen where the malting for many of the distilleries. The sun was coming out as we were waiting for the boat to arrive. In front of us were people we had seen on tours and a guy who stayed with Mike. I have to add here that my father has discovered the handicapped bathrooms. He loves them. This is important information.


The boat ride was fun as the sun came out and the wind was minimal. Mary and I walked for a bit around the outside deck. It was still cold though. I am really glad to have a hat.

We arrived at Kennacraig around noon and then began our drive to Oban. First stop, was near the place we ate for lunch. I don’t remember the town, but there are two parts to it. The first road we drove down to look at the views was beautiful as we started down the road to the water. Mary suddenly said she saw a whale. I looked at her to make sure she wasn’t losing her mind. Then I looked out into the water and saw something big jumping out of the water. When we parked and got out Mike’s binoculars we saw that it was dolphins playing. I had never seen that in the wild. It was quite fun to watch.
Mary who is blind and on her blackberry most of the drive, suddenly sees dolphins! Amazing.
Then we went to lunch at the hotel Crinan. It was a quaint old hotel looking over the water owned by a local artist and her husband.
We had a great a

no signal...

I am having a very hard time getting a signal for the internet. Frustrating as I have a poor memory and some funny things have been happening and the next day I can't remember. Mary and I were out at the pub tonight with cousins and have only 5 hours until the alarm goes off to get up and go. Mary is snoring and happily asleep.

Finishing Monday

No, we are not doing anything except drinking and eating!
I forget where I left off, but I think it was going to Caol Ila. On the way there we drove up a road to another distillery for the views. It was a beautiful drive past a loch (lake). I later found out that this loch is the water source for Caol Ila. ON the way to the distillery, we saw a handmade sign pointing to the distillery, on the way out the same sign said "other places". Okay, so it isn't that funny, but I laughed
I took a picture. It has been hard taking pictures. It is so beautiful that I want to take photos everywhere. I can't when we are driving on one way roads.

Caol Ila was an interesting tour. Dsepite some long stairs, Dad decided to go on the tour. He walked up 2 flights of stairs as if he was 40. And actually it was interesting, and I tasted some scotch that isn't sold anywhere else but the distillery. My dad really liked it there.


There is a horrible tide around Caol Ila (it is right on the water). Often they are called to look for lost people floating by.

After Caol Ila, we went to Porthaven to a pub for dinner. It was a VERY small pub, but was quaint with a fire going. Dad was very ecited to try Haggis. If you knew what Haggis is, you would be making a big face trying to not to gag.... Somehow he managed to find out the life history of the owner/cook/server when I don't even think he left his chair. Dad does that. He sits next to someone for 3-5 minutes and he knows everything about them. AND he had told them all about the political system of the us and all his physical problems. It has its ups and downs.


Mary and I had Haddock cakes. Delicious. We invited the driver to dinner. He is so good with Dad and seems to enjoy the time with us (of course, maybe he wants a good tip). As a professional tour guide, he took 2 years to go through training so maybe part of his training is to be patient and understanding.

IN addition, there was only one cab driver on the island and he was off island!



We got back to the B&B and Ronnie and Mahrie offered us a Scotch. We were very tired, but I said Oh yes, please.

I remembered that the woman at the bank told me that the dog Jillas (Faithful) did a water trick so I asked if he would do it for us. Ronnie told Jillas to fetch the bottled water. Then stopped Jillas and said no... not the brown peaty tap water, but the bottled water. While ROnnie was talking, Jillas just listened. Then wnet out and brought the bottled water!



We all had a whiskey. They are great hosts.



Then Mary and I went to bed in the wind and rain storm. I had night mares, but managed to sleep a few hours.

In a storm

I woke up at 2am with a big wind and rain storm howling outside. I can't go back to sleep, so it is time to write a little about Monday and tasting.
Our driver was scheduled to pick us up at 9:30am Monday to be at Bowmore at 10. Mary and I woke up, took a quick walk. It was cold, but felt good to be in the country. I didn't bring my camera.... silly me. Well, I remembered about 5 minuted into the walk, but Mary wouldn't let me go back.
The first thing we saw besides the sunset rising over the sea was a farmer lifting up a sheep as if it were only 10 pounds. It had gotten stuck and had to be lifted over the fence. These farmers are strong! We walked down the road a bit and enjoyed the fresh air and farm & sea smells.
We were back in time to wake my Dad up almost 2 hours before Mike's arrival. We had a nice breakfast of fresh fruit, cereals, eggs, bacon, sausage, tomatoes and mushrooms. Well... we didn't eat all of that. (Dad at most of it though). He was in a good mood. Then when Mike showed up, Dad wasn't ready. So waited and Mike told me that Mary and I were spotted by the neighbors this morning. He is staying down the road and the owners saw us and figured we were the crazy Americans he was driving.
Dad finally emerged from his room, but was grumpy because he couldn't find something he needed to get money from his Scottish bank account. We finally got Dad in the car, calmed down. Mike is a saint and convinced dad (as we hadn't been able to do), that the bank people on the island were friendly and smart and would help him.
Off we went to Bowmore at breakneck speeds. Mary was gulping and gasping at each corner. Remember, most of these roads are one lane with turnouts every so often. She didn't complain because she knew we were late. I was glad that I took a ginger pill (for car sickness).
We arrived at Bowmore and were in time for the tour... well... they waited for us. Mary and I looked at the situation and decided that Dad couldn't manage the stairs and the walking on this one and he went upstairs to a room overlooking the sea with comfy chairs and a video about Bowmore. They gave him a dram of the 12 year old and he was quite happy.
Mary, Mike and I learned about how Bowmore does their whiskey. They are actually one of only 3 who do their own barley malting. It was interesting, but the girl giving the tour had the most obnoxious voice and seemed to be annoyed when you asked a question in the middle of her memorized speech. BUT it was informative.
Afterwards we went to the comfy room and sat with Dad drinking a dram. Mary was a trouper and her face didn't contort as much as I thought when she was sipping. We made her add a little water and she was fine.
Then we rushed off to Kilchomen (I hope I am spelling that right... it is dark and I can't find my notes). It is the youngest distillery on Islay. (Bowmore is the oldest). They were small and relaxed and we got our own private tour. It is small and located on a farm and all the employees take part in all the jobs. They also malt their own barley. Dad was able to do this tour and he was so happy. We ate lunch their which was quite good. AND when Mary took a sip of this one, she actually said "this is good!"
NOW, back in the car... Dad started stressing again about the bank. We drove to the bank and went in and the banker couldn't have been more pleasant. Her name was Rosemary. Her husband is the farmer that Mary and I saw early in the morning. Small world... Well.. not really as I mentioned Islay (though big) only has 3 thousand people. We got Dad his money, and still had a little time before going to Caol Ila so I asked if we could see the Round Church in town. It is very picturesque at the top of Main street in Bowmore. It was built round so that the devil couldn't lurk or hide in any corners.

I will have to finish tomorrow. I am needing sleep and we have to get up soon to wake up Dad. We can't be late as we have to catch a ferry at 9am to Oban. (in the wind and the rain). Fun Fun Fun.

Landing

We landed and waited for our wheel chair. Dad was in a good mood having slept a little, and Mary and I also got some sleep.
They had one guy pushing two wheelchairs, but it was okay, they got us through customs. The only funny part was when the customs agent asked us how long we were staying, at the same time, I said 9 days, Mary said 7 and Dad said 10. It sounded funny.
Luggage was there, and then Dad insisted in going to the men's room. We had given up the wheel chair and the bathroom was not near. I found the guy returning the wheel chair, asked to borrow it and wheeled Dad to the handicapped bathroom, where I waited for 15 minutes. The wheel chair guy asked Mary if everything was ok. Yes, she said, that is just our dad!

We got into the terminal, letting Dad push the cart for stability and exercise and I was thrilled to see a man standing there with our name. He seemed surprised at what we looked like. What did he think we would look like???? Mike Hardie is his name and this first day he has been terrific... patient and funny and informative.

We drove around Loch Lomand and down and around winding roads through cute towns and beautiful lochs (lakes). It is a little disorienting being on the wrong side of the road. I made Mike stop a few times for photos, but not as often as I had wished. The hillsides are dotted with sheep and highland cows. There are miles of stone walls. We saw a lot for the first day and Dad was happy not to get out of the car too much. We did get out to have a look at the outside of a castle, and the have a snack (awful snack).
Mary and I had a wee nip of Scotch from my flask because she wanted to taste it before we went to a distillery. She nearly gagged, but admitted it wasn't too bad. A little later, Dad said that the breath mints Mary was using were so strong he could smell them!

The boat ride was a little unsettling as Dad had to climb 2 flights of stairs. I brought him to the bar/lounge and he had a drink and listened to the soccer game on TV. It was windy and rocky, but not too bad. Mary found the handicapped elevator for us on the way down which made life much easier.
Then we were on Islay. I have been pronouncing it incorrectly (as has my Dad). It is pronounced eye la. BEAUTIFUL. It is a huge island with 3 1/2 thousand people and 10 distilleries. We got to our bed and breakfast (The Monarchs) after being on a one lane road, seeing a beautiful rainbow and Ireland off in the distance. The b&b stands on a hill and is run by Marhe and Ronnie. They welcomed us (along with their dog... I can't remember its name but it is Gaelic for faithful, so I just call him Faithful).
The rooms are great and the views from the sitting room make you want to just sit. Dad's room is on the ground floor and is big. Mary and I are sharing a room on the second floor overlooking the water. Lovely.
Dad had some tea as Mary and I freshened up for an early dinner.
Dinner was in the bar at the Port Charlotte hotel and restaurant. It is a cosy place with a fire place and plenty of whiskey and friendly people.
Dinner was good... portions were very large and we had too much food despite the fact that we only ordered two appetizers and two main courses. The hit for Mary and Dad was the Steak and Ale pie with veggies and potatoes (the potatoes were cooked perfectly!). I enjoyed the plate of three kinds of smoked salmon.
Driving back to the hotel was just lovely with the night air, the sun going down and the cloud formations. Mary and I had a small peach vodka and fell asleep almost immediately. It is so quiet and peaceful here. BUT then true to jet lag.. I am awake writing this blog.
I better try to sleep as Mary and I are getting up early to walk, and then we have 3 distilleries to visit!
If there is anything you want to hear more about, let me know. I am sleepy and may have missed good details.

Arrived

Should I start at the beginning of my trip? I was up and ready for the shuttle at 4am. At 4:10, I got a call... my shuttle driver was stuck in a ditch in Alamo, but they had another driver who would go to Oakland airport with a passenger and then take me to SFO. They said it might be tight, but doable. I agreed. 40 minutes later, I am trying not to worry.... THEN amazingly, a driver showed and said he was going to take me directly to SFO. Great!!!!
Ride was smooth and check in was smooth, and then I go through the security and that is where I beeped. And I beeped and beeped again. I was told that I would have to undergo questions and scanning. I had to get personally wanded. Nothing beeped except my passport. I had to sit, stand, move this leg and the other, raise my arms and be patted.... morning exercises! Finally they realized that I was not a dire threat to security and let me go.

My flight to Newark was uneventful and I arrived early. I was waiting to get off the plane and to go meet Mary when I noticed I had two voice messages. They were from Mary. Her plane was delayed 2 hours. Well, she would still make the flight to Scotland, BUT then I had no backup or help with Dad through security. I think she planned this all along.

I kept the smile on my face and amusement in my space. At 4pm, my mother dropped off my father. The sad news is that his walking abilities have decreased tremendously since I last saw him in May. This was going to be a difficult trip. We stood in line for his first class boarding pass. YES, there was a line of over 25 people for International Business/First/Elite. As we stood in line, I ordered a wheelchair. It only took 2o minutes to get to us, but we had the best wheel chair driver in the world. He was from the West Indies which my dad noticed immediately and chatted with him about Cricket and soccer as the guy whisked us through the line.
BUT when I went through security... guess what?! I beeped and I beeped and the third time I had to stand in a glass box. After a few minute, I asked security what my sentence time in the box was. He wasn't amused. Apparently, they were waiting for a female security to wand me and pat me. GGRRRR.
Again, they couldn't find what was beeping and let me free. By that time, the wheel chair guy had my dad all set and my things all arranged on the table. i was putting on my bead bracelet and it broke... the beads going everywhere. I tried not to think about the fact that it was my good luck bracelet. I kept a smile and said it didn't matter. They did make me pick up every last bead in case someone fell on them. I still smiled.
The wheelchair guy was patient, luckily.... On a little hill towards our gate, he made the wheelchair go fast and said "beep beep" to people in the way making me and everyone else laugh. He said to me "humor is very important in life". I said "I am with you on that". Dad tipped him well.
Mary showed up 2 1/2 hours late needing a glass of wine. We sat at the wine bar which was conveniently located right near our gate and had a quick glass while Dad talked to everyone within earshot about anything they would listen to. My dad knows a lot about everything and is actually very informative if you are in the mood to listen.
We were able to convince them that he needed extra time walking down the jet way and we got on first.
Everyone boarded, the door closed, the engines started, we got on the jetway, and stopped. Then the engines cut and the pilot said that all east bound traffic has been stopped for an hour from Newark, Kennedy and LaGuardia. While Dad was being fed snacks and scotch, Mary and I got a little bag of pretzels and water. I still kept my humor.. it was easier with Mary behind me making comments about this and that.
Finally, the engines started and the pilot told us we were cleared to go... no other explanation.
The flight was bumpy and no one really settled in for a rest except the first class and the teenagers next to me who slept the entire time. Drinks are no longer free on international flights so I bought myself and Mary some white wine with dinner to make us sleep, then asked for another and was told they were out of white wine. What???
I watched two movies. (Vincent Price in House of Wax and Sean Connery in Diamonds are Forever. ) Mary watched two teenage flicks.
Two more notes:
I finally went to sleep and Mary woke me up hitting me... She said, "I just saw Dad walking by us, but he wouldn't talk". I told her she was hallucinating. She insisted and I told her to go to first class and check that he was in his seat. She did. The flight attendant had just put a blanket on him and he was snoring away. Then a man walked by us looking nothing like dad until his back was to us and then I knew who Mary had seen and was glad that she wasn't hallucinating.

Next: Landing.

Dad went to the store to buy his own disposable underwear because the ones that Mom bought were too small. Mom said he came back with the same size insisting they were better. Her friend says men's brains are deficient in some gene or chromosome or something. I don't know, but if my Dad is an example... maybe it is true.

Also, my mother wanted to know if Dad could bring medicine in unmarked bottles. Hmmmm??? What kind of medication comes in unmarked bottles? I asked her if it was legal medication. My parents often use the dog medicine for themselves because it is cheaper, so I wondered....

Oh... if you don't know my family.. my parents raise Bernese Mountain Dogs as a hobby. They have only 6 or 7 dogs at this particular time. (they have had up to 12 dogs at one time). My mother trains them, my father grooms them and judges at shows occasionally. He actually judged in Scotland about 10 years ago.

Going to bed. A big travel day tomorrow. All packed except the computer. I hope it fits!

Leaving tomorrow!

Yikes! One day!
I am nervous about staying in good health for this trip. A lot of people on the train and at work are sniffling and coughing. I hold my breath a lot and wash my hands obsessively. My poor hands are drying out. They look and feel 80 years old!
I asked my friend, Robin, for a long distance wellness healing. She is the best in keeping me healthy on a spirit level!

Also, I thought I would be ready by now, but I still have a little more to do. Last night, I went out in North Beach, thinking I was responsible enough to leave early and go home. But as usual, after only two glasses of wine, I lost some of my responsible nature. With white wine logic, I convinced myself with that I could stay out as long as I wanted and that being responsible was overrated.
Well... the honest truth is that I decided that I was having fun, and that is more important than packing.

I was at the San Francisco Brewing Company with a friend, saying goodbye to the Brew Pub and its owner. The business is in the process of being sold and will no longer be a brew pub. Sad..... i am glad I could go to say goodbye.

Then in keeping with the energy of my recent trip to Spain, my friend suggested we go to a Tapas restaurant. It was actually quite good. It is called Bocadillos. The waiter behind the bar was friendly and informative and suggested some good wine.
SO... I made the better decision to enjoy good food, good wine and good company rather than being at home stressing over my suitcase.
Of course, when my alarm went off this morning... I wasn't happy.

THE TRIP:
Apparently my father doesn't trust the disposable underwear, and told my mother he was bringing boxers to wear over the disposable underwear. BUT she did convince him that wearing undershirts and socks for two days is not a bad thing. WHY do they have to share all this with me? I actually don't really care what he packs or doesn't pack. I do care that he has enough room in his suitcase to bring home some scotch (and wee gifts for my mother).

Mary thinks she will be doing work on the trip which is why I am bringing my computer. She can't bring her lap top. That would deprive her computer addict daughter of a computer for a week. (Right, AlexANdra?)
I am not sure when Mary will have the time to work, but she might get bored with sipping Scotch, looking out at the rain from the car window, and walking around castles.

I am happy today.... and looking forward to a fun experience.
Airport shuttle picks me up at 4am tomorrow!
Signing out.
Elizabeth Barrie McMath

side notes

Just a couple of side notes.
ONE... I planned my dentist visit BEFORE I went off to Scotland because who wants to have dental issues in the UK? SO I get to the dentist last night 5 minutes early. I am told to wait. I wait and wait and wait. 35 minutes later, I am told that the dentist is doing emergency work and can't get to me... I would have to reschedule. Okay... I remained calm, but then it took me over an hour to get home from Berkeley and I was fuming when I got home. Waiting for me on the answering machine was a message from my dentist (who I actually like). He apologized and offered me a sonic electric tooth brush as compensation. I will take it, but it won't help if my tooth goes bad in Scotland. Have you ever seen their teeth???
Of course, the unsightly condition of their teeth could be because of the whiskey! Speaking of whiskey, I had one last night after getting home. I just wanted to make sure that I still liked it.

Other note. My mother wrote me that my father announced to her the other day that he will be able to catch up on his sleep on vacation. I am glad my mother saw the humor and insanity of this statement. I wonder lately what is wrong with my father's logic? Does logic leak out with our memory as we get older?
You have to understand why I think he logic is dwindling. He goes to bed at 10pm. He gets up between 7:30 and 8am. EVERY DAY! Now, what sleep is he catching up on? Maybe he lost when he was in his youth? If I ever get 1o hours of sleep, I get nervous that I might have missed something.
Oh well... traveling with my father is never predictable or normal (nor would I want it to be.)
Life is to be lived!

4 days before take off!

My mother is very excited by this disposable clothes idea. She gathered all my Dad's oldest undershirts and told him after wearing them, toss them. I imagine she even took some out of the rag pile to find enough to give him. I still can't get over the picture of disposable clothes self destructing after a certain number of hours after wearing. So there will now be even more room in Dad's suitcase for the Scotch he will buy.
My sister is already stressing about doing laundry. She will only be there a week, but isn't sure she even has enough underwear for one week. I said, "what? do you do laundry every day?" She answered with a big "Of course!". Well... that is a new one for me. I am lucky to do laundry once a week.
Yesterday, I went to Whole Foods at lunch time to buy some granola bars in case Dad gets hungry between meals. My work friend, Dora, told me I was a mean daughter. Are you kidding me? I am taking him to Scotland, what is "mean" about that. She demanded to know why I didn't buy something more appetizing than granola bars. What is wrong granola bars, I ask you?????

Well... even though I don't feel as if it is wrong to give my father a healthful snack, I decided to buy some organic dark chocolate and some cheese (It is processed enough that it won't go bad being in a suitcase for a few hours.) BUT I will still offer up the granola bars first! Why wouldn't my Dad want to be healthy and eat healthful foods?

I got an email from the driver, Mike. He finalized some things for us, and told me he would be at the Glasgow airport waiting for us with a sign so he doesn't miss us. How could he miss us? I think he shouldn't bring the sign and try to pick us out. I know what he looks like from his website.
I remember when I was travelling around England and Scotland for a couple of weeks visiting family in the early 80s. I stopped at the home of my Dad's cousin, May. She asked me if I would be visiting cousin Ivor McKinnon. I was totally confused and thought maybe I had misheard her (Scottish accents can sound like another language). I had never heard of cousin Ivor. She got him on the phone and he told me he would love to have me visit if I wanted. I said "sure why not?"
He lived near Cambridge in southeast England. I didn't know what he looked like and as far as I knew he had never seen me. I got off the train, and I was looking around, and this small man with the biggest grin on his face came running over to me. He said he would have known me anywhere. (he said I looked just like my father.... well my mother's father always said I looked just like him... I think I look like me!) Anyway, he came up to my shoulder (remember my father is 6'1"). He was so excited to see me, and we became instant friends. The first day we sat having tee with his lovely wife, Peggy and he said to her. "Oh I wish I could see Elizabeth's father's face when she tells him that she is staying with me... oh BOY!" I panicked for a moment wondering why I had never heard of him and if Dad would be upset.
Turns out they had a small falling out, but were perfectly happy to be reunited and stayed in constant touch until his death about 10 years ago.
Anyway, he told me he recognized me because I looked so American!
Still packing... but have to go to the dentist tonight for 2 fillings... I have British teeth.
Later!

Five days before take off...

Followers:
You might think that this trip is all about Scotch, so let me put your mind at rest. In reality, this is an 80th birthday present for my Dad (from my Dad).
My father was born in London in January 1930. He was the only child of older parents. He lived most of his young life in Forfar, Scotland with (strict) maiden Aunties. Actually, he was shuttled back and forth between London and Forfar depending on where the war was or wasn't. To make a long story short, in 1956 when he was studying at St. Andrew's University, he met my mother who was there on a year abroad from Vassar. He moved to the USA in 1957 and married my mother. Since then, he has managed to go back to Scotland every few years to visit his friends and family.
Lately, he has not been walking well. (which isn't a topic I want to get into right now). He decided he wanted to go "one last time" to Scotland. I don't know if it is his last time or not, but he is convinced it is, at this moment. His desire to go was also fueled by the death of the husband of his cousin, May. In the meantime, May has had a heart attack which leaves her weak and in an unstable condition.
In addition, the wife of my father's dear childhood friend passed away last year. Faye Mann was a great woman and I will miss not seeing her this visit. Fred Mann has been a friend of my father's since they were little boys. (I can't imagine my father as a little boy!)
His favorite cousins, Forbes MacMath, and Ivor McKinnon passed away quite a few years earlier. I might mention them later, since they were important in my Dad's life. (and mine).

So at this point, it is needless to say that my father wants to visit the few people who are left from his past before they are gone or he is gone. I can understand that. BUT for awhile, what I didn't understand was why I had to be the one to take him. Is it because I am single... is it because I am the oldest.. could it be that I am considered responsible??? My mother spent almost a year recruiting me to go with him. I have traveled a few times with my father. (my mother doesn't fly anymore!). She said he trusts me. I don't know that he cares who is with him.
In the past I was happy to do it, but with his new walking issues and the fact that they expected me to drive didn't make it a very tempting trip. (Driving on the "wrong" side of the road is hard enough, but in the past, my father would give me a tally at the end of the day of all the people, bikers and cars that I "almost" hit!) I am an excellent driver, I might add!

My mother finally convinced me to go when she said I could hire a driver and include my sister, Mary on the trip. (Alice is jealous, but her three boys wouldn't like her to leave for that long... and David feels guilty that his life is too busy to take the time). I understand. And David is darn lucky, he isn't the oldest or he would be going! It still doesn't feel like a vacation, but I agreed.

Dad is a kind man, but he can be a mean grump and fiercely opinionated. I can handle it, if I need to. Mary can handle it. BUT at this point, my worry is that the driver, Mike, will throw up his hands in frustration on a deserted Scottish road and make us get out to walk the rest of our journey. I chose the driver and have been in touch with him weekly for a few months.

I must admit that last week I wrote Mike and as delicately as I could, I told him to just agree with my father's lectures. My father is smart, but forgets to "discuss". He says what he says and that is it. And I am not sure if his opinions will be the same as those of the driver.
I also gently told him that my father is rather large and slow moving. (hoping the car will be big enough to handle him). I think Mike understood. SO far he has been more than helpful in arranging distillery tours, dinners and accommodations. I won't give his info until I actually meet him. (or he actually shows up to meet us... my parents have paid him in full).

So back to the point. This trip is a celebration of almost 80 years of life for my father. I hope this isn't his last trip, but if it is, Mary and I will make sure it is fun for him.

PS. Weather looks rainy, but not too cold. Mary reminded me that the way I planned the trip, we won't be outside much.... only in distilleries! NOT true. She and I plan to walk every morning, when my Dad is doing his morning ablutions. We will also visit some castles and even take a boat trip.

One week before

Well.... Lise told me that my father will still have to take off his shoes, but at least he will be sitting. My sister and I will arrive around the same time at Newark. (Me from SFO and Mary from STL.) She wants to have a drink before we go out of security and get my father. That might work... there is a great wine bar in terminal C in Newark. They sell glasses or tastes. I forget the name right now, but I will record it later. But maybe we should wait. I don't want to leave my father out on on the street. My mother will drop him off and go home to start her 10 days of freedom.

I was packing this morning and was remembering that when my father and I have traveled to Scotland in the past, as soon as we arrive, he says he needs to buy something... either socks, underwear, hankies.... so we spend the first day looking for a men's shop. SO, I called my mother to make sure he packs everything. She was excited to tell me that he bought disposable underwear. What does that mean???? My guess is that it gets thrown away after a day's use... or perhaps it disintegrates by the end of the day.. maybe it is flushable.... or maybe she meant that he has Depends. That last idea is being erased from my mind.
I was going to pack wine for my sister (and me), but decided that she (we) could buy it in the duty free shop. I will bring very few clothing items to leave lots of room for Scotch. I wonder how many bottles I can bring back without getting in trouble or paying for overweight luggage. Maybe I should bring disposible clothes.

Speaking of tours, my mother told me that maybe we should only go to 2 distilleries the first day and we should have lunch earlier. Hmmm... I didn't realize she was in control of what we all do when we are in Scotland. Did she want to join us??? No! But being a good daughter and thinking of my father with jet lag, I emailed the driver to ask if we could cancel a tour at the last minute if need be... just for my father... I will be a trooper and go to all of the schedules tours. I won't disappoint the distillery.

More to come.... next I will introduce the characters in this narration.